Extender: Which One Is Right for You? Left: TP-Link RE300 Extender Right: Orbi RBK50 Mesh Wi-Fi systemĭeciding between getting a mesh system versus an extender comes down to a few issues. RELATED: What Are Dual-Band and Tri-Band Routers? Mesh vs. They can integrate with smart home devices, act as a smart home hub, or come with built-in speakers that double as smart speakers. Mesh systems can also come with a ton of extra features depending on the system you purchase. The other two bands, meanwhile, are for your devices to use.ĭual-band mesh systems will also use backhaul, but they share that bandwidth with other devices on your network, thus the performance isn’t as high as a tri-band system’s. That simply means that the routers use one band exclusively for communicating with each other to vastly improve performance over what even a tri-band range extender could do. If you get a tri-band mesh system, for example, the system typically dedicates one of its bands for data backhaul. However, the difference is that these routers are far smarter and more powerful than a regular extender. Like extenders, mesh systems also repeat that original signal coming from the source of your ISP-provided modem or gateway. As you move through the home, your mobile devices simply connect to the device with the best signal for that part of the house. Once they’re installed, mesh devices connect to each other to provide a strong Wi-Fi signal across your entire home under a single network name. Some manufacturers have systems that cover up to 5,000 square feet with a single router and node, while others need three or more devices to cover an area that size. The number of nodes you need depends on the size of your home and the coverage the particular system covers. A mesh system is made up of a source router and additional “satellite nodes” that can be placed around the home. Mesh networks are often referred to as systems that “blanket” your home in Wi-Fi. When extenders aren’t up to the job, mesh networking becomes a very attractive solution. So, if you use two extenders to hit the basement, for example, the speed and strength of your Wi-Fi will often be noticeably slower. While extenders can help a great deal, the problem is that the Wi-Fi signal degrades the further away you get from the source (your ISP router or modem). And if you are using the wireless signal for a television or console, then it’s wise to only give those devices the extender’s Wi-Fi credentials to prevent connection attempts to the weaker signal. If you just have both networks saved under different names, your phones and tablets should just connect to the stronger signal. The problem is that your wireless device may keep trying to remain connected to the weaker signal, resulting in frustration for you.
#WIFI BOOSTER VS WIFI EXTENDER PASSWORD#
A powerline adapter setup uses your home’s electrical wiring to transmit data.Įxtenders typically have a different network name (SSID) from the main home network, such as “Home Wi-Fi” and “Home Wi-Fi Ext.” Some devices do allow you to use the same name and password for both the extender and the main network, but that usually isn’t a good idea. The major difference to watch out for is that some extenders are Powerline adapters requiring two boxes, while most extenders are purely wireless devices. When shopping for an extender, however, confusion usually arises because you can also run across devices called Wi-Fi repeaters, extenders, or boosters.įor the most part, the terms “Wi-Fi extender,” “repeater,” and “booster” are used interchangeably, with extender being the more common term.
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Range extenders were a popular option for improving home networks prior to the arrival of mesh systems.
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If, for example, your Wi-Fi network is strong in your home’s living room, bedrooms, and kitchen, but it doesn’t reach the den, then a strategically placed range extender may help get you the coverage you need. It may or may not have external antennas, and as the name implies, it extends the range of your Wi-Fi network. A range extender is usually a box that plugs directly into an outlet “wall wart”-style.